Recycled polyester (rPET) has gained popularity as a supposedly more sustainable alternative to virgin polyester. However, it's essential to recognize that polyester is a petrochemical product that has extensive environmental and health effects.
"Polyester is plastic... polyester comes from oil" - Linda Greer, Environmental Scientist
It's difficult (and let's face it, expensive) to retrofit your wardrobe to be polyester free. But, as we near peak oil and begin to recognize the immense and lasting effects of petrochemical production and the textiles produced from it, other, better options (like MIRUM) are helping us move away from plastic products.
This post will cover some of the drawbacks of recycled polyester but in many cases, they also apply to virgin polyester.
In the tricky textile landscape where it's difficult to know what's the most responsible path.
Energy Intensive Production
The process of recycling polyester involves melting down existing plastic and reforming it into new fibers. This process requires a significant amount of energy, and while it generally has a lower environmental impact than producing virgin polyester, it is not entirely energy-efficient.
Chemical Use
The recycling process often involves the use of chemicals to clean and prepare the recycled materials. While efforts are made to minimize the use of harmful substances, some chemicals may still be necessary, posing potential environmental and health concerns.
Resource Depletion
The production and eventual discarding of polyester, whether through recycling or disposal, contribute to resource depletion. The extraction of raw materials and the energy-intensive manufacturing processes involved in polyester production contribute to environmental degradation and the depletion of non-renewable resources.
Microfiber Shedding
Like virgin polyester, recycled polyester can shed microfibers during washing. These microfibers are tiny plastic particles that can enter water systems and pose a threat to aquatic life. Addressing microfiber pollution remains a challenge for the textile industry, regardless of whether the polyester is recycled or not.
Non-Biodegradable Nature
One of the most significant environmental drawbacks of polyester, whether recycled or virgin, is its non-biodegradable nature. Polyester fibers can persist in the environment for hundreds of years, contributing to long-term pollution concerns. When discarded, polyester items can end up in landfills where they do not break down naturally.
Microfiber Pollution
As polyester textiles, including recycled polyester, degrade over time, they release microfibers into the environment, especially during washing. These microfibers, which are tiny plastic particles, can enter water systems and ultimately oceans. Microfiber pollution poses a threat to aquatic life and ecosystems, as these particles are difficult to filter and can accumulate in marine environments.
Landfill Accumulation
When discarded polyester items end up in landfills, they contribute to the growing issue of landfill accumulation. Given the material's slow decomposition rate, polyester waste takes up valuable space and contributes to the overall environmental burden associated with landfills.
Greenhouse Gas Emissions
Both the production and disposal of polyester contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. The recycling process itself, while generally more environmentally friendly than producing virgin polyester, still requires energy, often derived from non-renewable sources, leading to the release of greenhouse gases.
Chemical Leaching
In landfills, the decomposition of polyester items can lead to the leaching of chemicals into the soil and groundwater. While recycling aims to reduce the need for new production, the potential presence of residual chemicals in recycled polyester could pose environmental risks if not properly managed.
Limited Circular Economy Impact
While recycling polyester is a step towards a circular economy, the full realization of circularity is hindered by challenges such as contamination, mixed-material products, and the limitations of recycling technologies. Achieving a truly closed-loop system for polyester remains a complex challenge.
Limited Recycling Streams
The availability and effectiveness of recycling infrastructure play a crucial role in the sustainability of recycled polyester. In regions with limited recycling facilities or insufficient collection systems, the potential for polyester recycling decreases, and the material may end up in landfills. Moreover, once rPET has been made into a clothing item, it's removed from the typical recycling streams and may not be recyclable again.
Dependency on PET Bottles
Much of the recycled polyester comes from post-consumer PET (polyethylene terephthalate) bottles. While this diverts plastic waste from landfills, it also creates a dependency on the availability of these bottles for recycling, removing them from the recycling process and transforming them into garments that are not recyclable.
The environmental impact of discarded polyester extends beyond its initial use. Whether recycled or not, the persistence of polyester in the environment, microfiber pollution, and the challenges associated with its end-of-life management highlight the need for continued efforts to improve recycling technologies, encourage responsible disposal practices, and explore alternative materials with reduced environmental footprints.